Expedition Journal

  Another dinner with Ferran and Yannick with stories, stories, stories... followed by lingering in bed too long... 'lets leave at 6am'... never ending amazement of meandering through the 700m of Khumbu icefall - it has changed a lot from last year - sun striking our … [Read more...]

     Last night I staggered into Makalu's basecamp at 10pm after more than 1,000m of ascent above 7,000m and 3,000m of descent down steep crevassed slopes and frozen moraine ... some 72 hours of the summit push. I looked ashen. I devoured dal baht and thanked Josh … [Read more...]

K2 - From the 1909 Expedition I remember reading the history of the 1986 K2 disaster that saw a number of people perish including Julie Tullis. One of the few survivors, her much more experienced climbing partner, Kurt Diemberger, survived a multiple day storm at the high … [Read more...]

Time passes quickly in thin air. Your body takes comfort in doing little, good food and comfortable tent. After a rest of 6 days and a wait for a summit window, we are all packed and ready for a 4 day summit push. Having been up half- way to Makalu's summit twice, we now … [Read more...]

On the morning of April 30th we left Makalu's Camp 2 at 6600m to climb towards windblown sky through crevassed steep snow slope and rock band for our final acclimatisation. Zeb Revol and Dani had a plan to take a tiny Black Diamond tent to sleep at Makalu-La. Josh and I … [Read more...]