Late Saturday night we used a short-lived break in foul weather to explore the Death Valley and get to the bottom of an icefall below the West Rib ridge to deposit our cache for Cassin. This year no climber has been to this narrow valley filled … [Read more...]
Expedition Journal
Whiteout. Denali-time
How much can it possibly snow in 24 hours? Yesterday it was 1 meter of fresh snow. Today it's forecasted to be 1.5 meters. Day two of a whiteout. It's Friday and the weather outlook looks the same until ... next Wednesday. This is when the forecast ends :). Good … [Read more...]
What keeps us going?
An early Everest summit meant that I could squeeze in an unplanned week of family time in London before my appointment with the park service on Denali. This past week felt like a never-ending feast of sensations: smelling my kids hair, falling asleep while reading with Theo, … [Read more...]
Everest Summit: Exertion and Exaltation
Our summit bid journey from C2 to C3 was marked by high winds reaching 70 miles an hour. Jumar (an alpinist tool used for ascending up the rope) served as a lifeline on a 40 degree slope. You had to hold onto it really tight in order not to get thrown around by wind gusts. … [Read more...]
Just a regular day at 21000 ft
Today Camp 2 is abuzz with noise. Caravans of downsuit-clad sweating climbers are streaming through an odd collection of tents towards the Lhotse face to get in line for the chance of the Everest ascent in the next few days. Lots of nationalities, heaps of … [Read more...]
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