After 4 days of waiting in a whiteout, last night we used a brief break in weather to move up the Death Valley to our cache. We traded the comfort of two tents, fresh food and avalanche-safe location for a small bivy tent, freeze-dried food and a campsite surrounded by … [Read more...]

    Late Saturday night we used a short-lived break in foul weather to explore the Death Valley and get to the bottom of an icefall below the West Rib ridge to deposit our cache for Cassin. This year no climber has been to this narrow valley filled … [Read more...]

  How much can it possibly snow in 24 hours? Yesterday it was 1 meter of fresh snow. Today it's forecasted to be 1.5 meters. Day two of a whiteout. It's Friday and the weather outlook looks the same until ... next Wednesday. This is when the forecast ends :). Good … [Read more...]

  Today Camp 2 is abuzz with noise. Caravans of downsuit-clad sweating climbers are streaming through an odd collection of tents towards the Lhotse face to get in line for the chance of the Everest ascent in the next few days. Lots of nationalities, heaps of … [Read more...]

At 2am on 11th of May, we walked out of EBC aiming to summit Everest on May 15th. I had no sleep that night anxiously thinking of what laid ahead. Two hours into the icefall journey at about 4am we were stalled by a badly broken ladder. That marked a freezing 4 hour long … [Read more...]