Cholatse may have been an odd choice for an acclimatisation peak on our way to do a first ascent of Kangchung Shar. This remarkable summit is a formidable objective on its own. Rarely climbed it stands proudly in spitting distance from Everest. Novice to … [Read more...]
Climbing the Nepalese Eiger
Reportedly, somebody asked Edmund Hillary on his way back from a successful first ascent of Everest in 1953 whether he would consider climbing Ama Dablam. His reply was 'It can't be done!' A few years later, in 1961, an American team that included Barry Bishop (Brent … [Read more...]
Mission accomplished. What’s next?
As we are walking down from the summit of Denali at midnight, I gain a second wind. I now lead the team down an exposed steep ridge. We are still very high at over 17,000ft. Clouds form a cotton wool blanket over the valley. Only Mounts Foraker and … [Read more...]
Summit Triumph
Yesterday, on June 11 2016, at 8pm AKS our team has made a small contribution to mountaineering history. Oswald Freire and Joshua Jarrin, my Equadorian climbing partners, became the first South Americans to summit Denali via the Cassin ridge, the biggest single … [Read more...]
Cassin Ridge Epic
Epic is the only word I have for the last 48 hours of climbing the Cassin ridge route on Denali. True alpine adventure with no climbing aids like belays or fixed ropes, utter remoteness, extreme exposure and bestial beauty. Wednesday, the first day of the climb … [Read more...]
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